"Life is about more than just maintaining oneself, it is about extending oneself.
Otherwise living is only not dying"...
Simone De Beauvoir
(1908-1986)
This time we stayed 4 miles off shore to avoid the lobster traps. There are fewer of them in 150 to 200 feet of water, but they are still there! Knowing the wind was going to increase early we pushed the boat along at 10 knots and had a pleasant ride all the way to Southwest Harbor.
Rugged Maine Coastline
We can see Mountains!!!!
Since the XM satellite weather was reporting several fronts coming through we decided to stay for a couple of days until things settled down.
Note the "salt" on the rails!
Dysarts Marina is owned by the same Dysarts that own the truck stop out side of Bangor and they run an efficient operation in both places. This is a popular marina because of their down home friendliness, reasonable prices and great location.
Dysarts Marina Southwest Harbour
Several of the boaters I spoke to routinely booked in here for one to two months during the summer. Its typical New England Scenery with rolling hills, clear blue water, fresh clean air and down home hospitality. Two of the boaters were from Texas and both remarked how refreshing it was to take a deep breath and feel cool clean air enter your lungs vs the heavy thick humid air of the Texas summer.
Pulling Lobster Traps
The trawler Spirit of Zopilote, well known to readers of Passagemaker Magazine was here and apparently makes this a regular stop. Bruce Kessler is an ardent boater and has travelled around the world in his trawler. He shares his experiences with attendants at "Trawler Fest".
"Zopilote"
Talking with the other captains it was apparent that they all were frustrated with the lobster pots being in the navigation channels and everyone (except me!) had just gone ahead and put line cutters on their shafts. If they went over one, the line simply got cut and didn't foul their props. This was of particular help getting into port after dark.
Two successive fronts are moving through the area tonight. If things have settled in the morning we may try a straight shot to Eastport..Most of it is in open water and it is an 80 nm mile run but we have plotted a couple of "outs" in case it gets too rough. It's been a long haul and we are ready for it to be over so we can relax and enjoy easy summer cruising in Maine....we'll see!
Leaving Biddeford Pool at 7 am we slowly maneuvered around the lobster floats to fairly open water. The sun was shining, the winds were calm and even though the temperature was in the 60's, Beth stayed on the bow of the boat directing me through the mine field that was getting less dense as we exited the harbour. We passed uncomfortably close to a number of the pots but wouldn't realize how close until later in the day.
Tenants Harbour Traps
Setting a course 3 to 4 miles off shore we sat back and enjoyed the slow rhythmic undulations of the sea swell which seemed to be timed with the soft drone of the engines. Slowly we watched as the bright morning sky started to cloud in and a few rain drops appeared on the windshield. Nothing bad appeared on the radar but when we saw a distant island fog in and a lobster boat disappear into a light fog, we became somewhat alarmed. Is this going to get thicker? Should we take one of the alternate routes I plotted in case of inclement weather or should we keep going? We still had phone service so we called ahead to Tennants Harbour and reached a soft spoken man named Stuart.
Stuart said in his lilting down home accent, "We have heavy fog over he ah, but it was lifting". He couldn't see the harbor from his office window but "Hold on. I'll just walk out and look out into the bay... Yes, it's lifting you should be OK. Looks like you are bringing the good weather with you," he said calmly.
As the fog became thicker I decided maybe the best course would be to just hurry up and get there. Powering up.....no go....only 12 knots....What!.."What now I cursed!" as I cut back the throttles and went down into the engine room to see if there was a problem. If you remember back to the first part of the blog, when we started out, this problem was due to a lot of water in the bilge. Not this time. I pumped out what little water was present from the dripping packing glands then checked the fuel filters. The port engine fuel filter pressure gauge had gone from 5 to 10 mm...not enough to hold back fuel delivery but I switched it to a fresh filter just in case. Back up at the helm I powered up with the same result. Clearly we would not be running fast, but why?
The seas were calm and we had radar so we just kept our normal 1200 rpms, but our speed was at least a knot or two slower than expected. For fear of whatever was slowing us down getting worse, Beth refused to allow me to stop and back up to see if I could clear anything from the props or stabilizers...until she saw a Minke whale off our starboard side. I pulled the throttles back and pulled the transmissions in neutral. As she was trying to get a picture, I pulled the transmissions in reverse. An alarmed Beth came tearing back from the bow of the boat yelling, "Oh my God, you just ran over a lobster buoy and cut the rope. I saw the cut end of the rope!" There were no buoys in the area so I realized that it was a lobster buoy dragging off of our stabilizer that was slowing us down.
We continued on and managed to navigate through another mine field of pots to finally enter Tennants Harbour. I had called ahead and Stuart had a diver ready to go under and check Doc's Holiday's bottom. Sure enough there was still a couple of fathoms of rope hanging off the starboard stabilizer. Some lobsterman back in Biddeford Pool is probably still looking for his trap!
Now let me tell you about Tennants Harbor. This is down east Maine. Warm friendly people who will bend over backwards to help you out and not rip you off in the process.
Stuart is a thin man with a warm calm inviting demeanour and a soft voice that reminds one of Harrison Keller, the host of the radio show on public radio from "Lake Wobegone". His assistant, Chrissy is a bright enthusiastic girl with a glint of mischievousness in her eye who has "all you need to know about Tennants Harbour."
Chrissy informed us that the boat "Dreadnought" tied to the dock was owned by the famous painter Andrew Wyeth. His son, Peter owned one of the islands here and Andrew owned a couple of islands south of here. There was a museum nearby but we would have to get a taxi to get there.
"Dreadnought"
The famous Maine boat builder, Lyman Morse leased this facility as a launching site. Her father has worked for Lyman Morse for 30 years. We immediately took her up on her offer to show us a "mock up boat" that was put together because the would be owner really wanted to see what it was going to look like, not just the blue prints. The mock up was impressive and shows just what extent this boat builder will go to help his customers realize their dream. Unfortunately, the fortune of the person ordering the boat changed and construction stopped, but the mock is there with the blue prints for anyone who wants to continue the construction.
Stuart came out to check on us at our mooring and after helping me shorten the scope of the mooring, was not satisfied that if the wind came up we wouldn't hit another boat close to us. He very kindly had us move in to the dock for the night...at no extra charge! He even helped us get secured to the dock. Because we might be leaving before he got to work in the morning, he thanked us for coming in...and invited us to return on our way back. Considerate, caring, honest down home maine people!
Four in the morning and I heard the lobstermen starting their engines. The chilly fresh salt air was drifting in our aft cabin window as I slipped on some clothes and made my way to the galley to make coffee. I watched as the harbour started to come to life. As I watched the boys putting on their slickers to go fishing, something caught my eye. Thin somewhat aesthenic people with long hair getting on their boat? Not the usual outline of a rugged lobsterman. No....with the aid of my binoculars it was clear...two girls putting on their slickers to take their lobster boat "Endurance" out to their traps.. It turns out that Paula and Chelsea have been lobstering for several years! Yes!! Down Home Maine! Here sex , race, color or creed doesn't matter...honesty, hard work, respecting and caring for others, is what is truly valued in Maine.
We had a leisurely breakfast on the boat, bacon, eggs, home fries and coffee while we waited for the breathing fog to burn off. They are several different fogs in Maine according to the locals: ground mist, morning fog, black fog, fog so thick you can shovel it, pea soup fog, and what they call a breathing fog. (comes in and goes out;comes back in and goes out, repeatedly!) A breathing fog is what we had. Just the fact that they have so many names for fog tells you something about cruising in Maine. There are at least two things you are going to have to deal with; fog and LOBSTER TRAPS!
The lobster traps are everywhere! We have seen them sparsely placed in 180 feet of water, and so thick near shore, that you could practically walk on the floats in to shore! What is particularly frustrating is they are placed right in the navigation channels. In Portsmouth, at the Wentworth Marina, there are several placed in the middle of the entrance to the mooring field. One boat owner had to tell a waterman to move the trap from behind his boat slip because he didn't have enough room to pull his boat out of the slip...in his home marina! I understand that the lobstermen get upset if a boat propeller cuts their line, it costs them money to repair the trap and they lose the income, but that is minor to the cost of repairing a prop or the danger of having to dive (in very cold water) under the boat to cut a line off of a tangled prop.
As the fog was lifting, I rechecked my engine water intake repair. Assured that the hose was not leaking, we fired up the engines and slowly navigated our way out through the mine field of lobster pots and headed north. Destination, only 30 miles away....Biddeford Pool.....MAINE!
WhoooooHooooo....Finally Maine!!!
Our excitement grew as we pulled in to secure Doc's Holiday at a mooring at Biddeford Pool. This is not true down east Maine yet, (true down east Maine is almost anywhere north of Portland, Me) but it's beginning to look like it. The launch picked us up and we anxiously headed to the bustling metropolis of down-town Biddeford Pool....one combination takeout restaurant and general store...and a post office. We walked Spencer a couple of miles, and admired the New England Style houses, then stopped at the takeout for our first feed of full bellied deep fried clams and lobster roll. Beth really enjoyed her favourite food, clams, but I was disappointed in the tasteless lobster roll. I thought to myself, "Man, the women on Campobello Island could teach these people a thing or two about cooking Lobstah!"
Biddeford Pool Anchorage
We only travelled a short distance because, like it says on the Maine licence plate,"Maine, the way life should be" so we wanted to slow down. We knew now we would be home in time for International Festival...this is a celebration between Calais, Me and St. Stephen , New Brunswick and is "homecoming" for those of us who moved away.
As well, my XM satellite weather system showed an impending front coming in from Montreal, giving the strong possibility of thunder showers.. We watched the system approach. Rain and thick black heavy clouds appeared. The boat leaned into the rapidly increasing wind then....the fury of nature! Multiple thick fingers of lightning lit up the sky. The wind whipped the boat from side to side and I saw the wind speed indicator shoot up to 45 mph as the boat strained at it's mooring line. Within 20 minutes it was over. We watched as the storm passed off to our east with a spectacular display of black clouds and lightning. As Spencer stopped shaking and was calming down....the fireworks started. Yes, it was the 4th of July and from our anchorage we could see the fireworks displays all the way up the coast to Portland. We had fireworks nearby, and in the distance, 300 degrees around us, but their briliance didn't compare to natures fireworks still going on in the other 60 degrees. Anyone who couldn't be thrilled by this, is in a premorbid condition and has no adrenalin left in their glands!
Sitting here with a steaming cup of hot coffee, I watch as the morning sun washes the darkness of night off the the surrounding houses and nearby boats. "Almost home!" I thought to myself. "Can I slow down now? After years of rushing to maintain a smooth flowing operating room schedule to keep surgeons and patients safe and happy, endless before and after hour meetings to keep our business running smoothly, quality assurance committee meetings and medical executive committee meetings to keep the hospitals running smoothly, playing and partying just as hard on the limited time off (because I worked hard...and damn it I deserve it, attitude!)... should I slow down? Could I slow down? If not now, when?
We left Cape Cod Canal at 7 am for what we thought would be a short day to cross Massachusetts Bay, Boston Harbor and land at Gloucester, NH. Wrong! Half way across Boston Harbour entrance the coast guard announced that the 18 foot high railroad bridge (we need 20 ft), which opens to the cut across Cape Anne was closed and no idea when it would open. This left no choice but to go around the cape and brave the ocean swells, so we changed course and set sights for Portsmouth, NH turning a 30 mile trip into a 80 mile trip.
By passing Boston.
Expecting the afternoon winds to whip up the sea, I decided to bring Doc's Holiday up on plane and we flew across the water at 15 knots. Finally the big Detroit's got to do what they are supposed to like best....run hard. The boat ran smooth, actually riding the waves better than if we were going at our regular trawler speed of 8 to 9 knots. Fuel consumption....who cares...I just wanted to get in where I knew we were going to be safe....so we held her at 2000 rpm for a couple of hours...until..I did an engine room check!
I noticed the bilge pump light coming on a little more frequently but didn't realize why, until I did the engine room check....I had a water intake hose leaking! Damn..out in the middle of the sea near a rough cape and I had to shut her down or risk blowing the hose all together. What I needed was a quick fix so we could get to port before it got too rough. Pulling out my best tool in fighting the mechanical gremlins.....DUCT TAPE!... I made a quick repair and we finished the trip at our regular 9 knots. Whew...it was a little nerve wracking when I had trouble starting the engine after the repair ..(this part made Beth cry)...but we pulled through.
Once at the marina, we used the loaner car to find a preformed 90 degree bend radiator hose...thank you Pep Boys...and completed the repair properly. A low has settled in, so we may not be able to make it to Maine tomorrow. There is a bigger front following so we will have to be in a protected cove by tomorrow night...to leave or not to leave?...that is the question. At $3.80/ft for dock space, I think I know the answer.
We had a leisurely morning, biding our time to take off for "Hogs Channel" that leads into the Cape Cod Canal. Why?....I will quote from the active captain review which showed a hazard marker at this channel:
"Under the right conditions, the channel all the way out to wings neck and beyond can present truly violent sea conditions, with short period, steep faced, 6-8 foot waves. It will be the pounding of a lifetime for many boaters. What are the conditions? Outgoing tide and a SW wind (which is the prevailing wind). All the water flows in the channel because it's so much deeper than the surrounding waters, and the winds funnel up the bay. It's Hell on water.""
No, we weren't having our last meal! We were waiting for the time, tide, wind...and sanctions from the gods...especially Neptune ( god of the sea!) to all fall in conjunction so we could get the easiest passage through this hazard. So what do you think happened??
We left Cuttyhunk a little early...SLACK TIDE wasn't until 2:45 in the afternoon...so we were supposed to leave for the 30 mile trip at around 11:30. Given our apprehension, we left at 10:30 figuring we could sit and wait for the tide to change. I know you are expecting some catastrophe to happen, but it didn't. Buzzard's Bay was perfectly calm. There was only a 2 to 5 knot wind and it was coming from the north so we slowed down so much (4 to 5 knots) the sailboats were passing us. It was sunny and cool as we gently bobbed over the small ocean swells and we timed it perfectly. As we entered "Hogs Channel", the tide changed and even though we could sense that the current was strong, we actually got a push from the west to east tide, that assisted us along to the west end of the Cape Cod Channel, where we had a slip at Sandwich Marina waiting for us. Thank you, Active Captain and the contributing reviewers.
Cape Cod Canal Railroad Bridge
Retrieving ? Mooring Ball on Cape Cod Canal
By now most of our friends and relatives realize that we are seriously coming home. My good friend Marshall Lucas called and would like to join us around Portland, Me and he called his brother Charlie who lives in Falmouth, MA. Charlie, is in the coast guard auxiliary and he and his wife showed up at the boat with goodies....fresh shrimp that Marilyn cooked herself, a variety of fruit, cheese, deli meat, crackers, and most importantly ice and WINE.....damn, we are close to being home and they have helped us feel it.... It was nice talking and catching up on old friend stories about family and escapades.....Thank you, Charlie and Marilyn.
As I sit here looking out the windows, the day is dawning. Lobster men are arriving and getting their boats ready for the days work. Their boats growl to life and they set out in the predawn perfectly calm water to ply their trade. I silently wish them well, good weather and a fair catch.
We will be leaving for Gloucester, MA and possibly along to Portsmouth, NH if tide and weather permit.
Brewer Capri Marina, Port Washington, NY ...Sunrise
A 56 mile run with smooth waters until the wind came up in the afternoon, so we decided to cut things short and find what looked like a good anchorage. As we entered the cove we could see a large (100 foot West Port motor yacht) anchored in the middle of the bay, with several small sail boats on moorings on the east side. We slowly motored in behind the yacht and anchored in between the yacht and the sailboats. Thank goodness we got a good set because the rest of the night, until 2 am, the boat hobby-horsed due to the sw wind causing an incoming swell with waves from Long Island Sound. Poor Spencer was still sea-sick the next morning.
The yacht beside us was named "Gene Machine". My guess is that the owner either invented or helped market the new machine that can take a sample of your blood and decode your DNA. This may be useful (not yet proven) in treating inherited diseases and diseases of aging and immunosupressive diseases, like cancer.
"Gene Machine"
Anchorage at Joshua Cove, CT....flying Canadian Flag
We were up at 5 am to get an early start to cross Rhode Island Sound. This area is open to the Atlantic Ocean and our plan was to get across before the predicted 20 -25 knot gusts of wind hit in the afternoon. It really was a pleasant ride for most of the way. 1 to 3 foot waves with some swell coming in from the Ocean. We relaxed with the boat on automatic pilot and a soothing drone from the Detroit Diesels.
Rhode Island Sound
In the afternoon as I checked the satellite weather, it became apparent that a few thunderstorms were brewing and would cross our path. Given the near disaster on Delaware Bay we decided to head for the nearest port of refuge instead of going all the way to the Cape Cod Canal. Quickly we set a course for Cuttyhunk, Ma., which is located on the inside of Martha'sVineyard. We elected to take a mooring and wait out the thunderstorms.
Storms a brewing...Cuttyhunk, MA.... mooring.
Canadian Geese dropped in for dinner...they got some of Spencers food.
Wow! Beautiful! Protected by hills almost 360 degrees but very tight quarters in the mooring field. The pictures will show how tight the boats are packed in, but just to give you an idea, I had to reach down from my back deck in the morning to push the nose of a sailboat away from hitting the stern of the boat.
When the young fellow who came around to collect the money for the mooring was asked if the boats ever hit one another. He laughed, "Oh! All the time! You make friends real fast in here!" Jokingly as only New Englanders can, he laughed, "I think its funny. I don't know why anyone would come in here! Its mainly when there is no wind and the boats get turned every which way, so there is usually no damage."
Sunrise at Cuttyhunk
Tomorrow we will time the tide to take on "Hogs Channel" and the Cape Cod Canal.
