Nassau to Bimini to Back in the USA

     Watching the weather intensely, we finally picked what looked like the best wind and sea conditions to get across the "Tongue of the Ocean" between Nassau and Chub Cay in the Berry Islands (remember on a good weather prediction going down we got our asses kicked!).  This time we intended on passing Chub Cay to get on to the calmer Bahamas Bank and either anchor at Honeymoon Harbor or if the conditions were right and we made good time, cross the gulf stream to Fort Lauderdale.
     Bang! We nailed most of it. A little rough when we first pulled out, it smoothed out for us once we got up on plane.  Thank you Huckins. This boat has been mechanically sound and smooth running, able to take more heavy seas than either Beth and I would prefer.
     We passed Lucky One about 10 miles out of port and checked with them to see if they needed me to shadow them, since Huen was still struggling with broken shifters, oil loss from his port motor and and was taking on water from his packing glands. Linda laughed and indicated they were fine telling us to go on ahead.  Lucky One was wallowing from the sea swells and they knew if I traveled at that speed I would most likely get sea sick.
     Once on the Bahama Bank, the sea swells stopped and we cruised at 20 knots all the way to Gun Cay, the passage through to the gulf stream.  As we eased through the narrow shallow passage way and navigated slowly through the shifting sand and strong current we entered some larger waves.  At first I thought it was just that the tide had shifted but as we got further off shore.....the admiral spoke, "This is bullshit! Its too rough! The dogs are scared! Redirect to Bimini!"
                                                                               
                                                                                   

                                  Coming across the Bahama Banks....smooth and clear....lots of starfish.


    My plans for a feather in my cap to travel from Nassau to Fort Lauderdale were thwarted. We rocked and rolled our way into Blue Water Marina in Bimini, settled in to our slip, broke out the cocktails and grilled some steaks.  The Admiral was right. Even though we stopped early (leaving Nassau at 06:30 and arriving in Bimini at 2:00), it was much more relaxing to stop early to enjoy the last of our time in the Bahamas.
     Next to us was a sailboat from Blue Hill, Maine.  They were waiting on parts from the states and we enjoyed talking to some fellow Maniacs about how they were enjoying being out of the snow. One of them put 1,000 miles on his snowmobile over the winter.
     Lucky One decided to anchor out at Honeymoon Harbor and left to cross the gulf stream early the next morning. The Admiral opted to wait until later in the morning as the prediction was for the stream to settle down to one foot.  Ah! A lazy morning to enjoy in bed, the fragrant smell of coffee, bacon, home fries wafting down from the galley, the puppies snuggled up beside me.
    Finally it was time to tackle the Gulf Stream.  As we pulled out of Bimini, Beth rocked up and down  on deck as she was storing the lines and fenders.  In the shallows it was rough and the puppies got that wide eyed look of "No not again!" in their eyes, but as we got up on plane things settled down and they curled up on the seat beside me. Interestingly, we experienced turbulence mainly on the east and west walls of the Gulf Stream, the center being relatively calm. Beth's predictions were right on and we felt we got the best weather window possible, with 10 knot winds, 1 foot waves and only 1 foot swells. We flew across the Gulf  Stream.
     Lucky One arrived before us and as we tried to join them in Dania Beach, informed us that they totally lost their port engine on arriving at the Sea Buoy off of Fort Lauderdale.  They had to work their way in at low tide, to a congested marina on one engine. We arrived just as they were tying up and with no place to dock, decided to go back out.  Mistake! As we idled through a very shallow spot our starboard propeller grounded shutting down the motor and the port engine pushed us more toward the shallow water,  totally grounding the boat.  Crap!  I had to come all the way back here to have a mishap, but I could only reflect that it was a minuscule problem compared to the multitude of problems that Lucky One had encountered and effectively dealt with to complete this entire adventure.  We relaxed waiting for the tide to come in, taking the opportunity to check all of our strainers for any debris that might have gotten sucked in and created a clog, clearing customs and immigration by video conference on our phone and coming up with the plan to continue on up the coast to an open marina for dockage.  We wouldn't be able to have a final farewell dinner with Lucky One but knew that with Huen's capabilities, they would be fine.
     As we continued along the ICW, Beth and I discussed how even though we had to wait for multiple bridge openings, it seemed easier than rocking and rolling in the ocean waves. " After all  there really wasn't much to see out there in the big blue," she commented, " And just look at the exquisitely maintained mansions lining both sides of this waterway". We felt safe....but were we?
     Beth noticed it first. She said she could hear it!  As I looked at her quizzically, the VHF radio burst into a very loud siren, then an announcement, " Take immediate shelter, high winds, rain with the possibility of hail and the formation of water spouts that can overturn boats,"  was emphasized by forbidding black clouds swirling ahead of us and sharp cloud to ground lightning flashing on both sides of the waterway!   Waiting for the terminally long bridge opening ahead, the deluge swept in with gusting rain blinding us from even seeing the bridge. I struggled with the wind and current to keep Betsy centered, trying to keep the nose into the wind, trying to keep the boat off of the cement walls and docks lining both sides of the waterway, made even more difficult by the wipers inability to keep the streaming water off the windshields. The afternoon thunderstorm threatened us all the way to Boynton Beach, but eventually blew through, off toward the Bahamas.
     Exhausted, we tied up at the marina. Too tired to cook, we sauntered over to the restaurant (2 Georges) and  much to our surprise had an excellent meal, Beth thrilled with the Tuna Thai salad and me enjoying the blackened Mahi and of course a few tasty libations.
                                                                                 

                                          Mama duck and babies cruising by Betsy at dock.
        
      A restful nights sleep and heading north in the morning.
  

Back to Nassau

     Lucky One left Staniel Cay before us as we were getting fuel.  A calm sea with only a few waves that crossed our path when transversing the openings between the islands allowed us to power up to 2100 rpms and an 18 knot cruise, relax with feet up on the helm, relive and laugh at the previous days  adventures and enjoy the smooth ride.  As we passed each island our memories were revived, each adventure specific to each island and anchorage that we experienced on the way down to Staniel Cay and we discussed how our expectations of calm serene anchorages, conditions smooth enough to sail the dingy, relaxed picnics on the beach had been somewhat unrealistic.
                                                                                   

                                               Four day post Mama Karma Pig Bite  
      Noting a few clouds on the horizon, I checked the radar to see rain ahead that would cross our path and could not be avoided since it would strike exactly over the dog legged path I plotted to avoid the coral heads of the yellow banks. The sky darkened and the rain began to fall, light at first than increasing with a little more wind, streaming water down the side and front windows, washing away the crusted salt accumulation on the rails and sides of the boat, cooling the entire helm.  Fortunately there was no lightning and our speed kept the agitated waves from rolling the boat. As we neared Nassau the sun came out, the rain stopped and we glided into harbor on shining flat calm seas.
    We settled into our slips and helped Lucky One get tied up.  A few days to explore Nassau allowed us to experience some more of the down town and the ghetto and Huen to have his first ever city Bus Ride...."Not my cup of tea!" quipped Huen.
                                                                             

                    Having a refreshment downtown Nassau where the cruse ships dock.

                                                                                   

                                          Local Rum Cake Factory. Yum. We stocked up!
                                                                                   

    Beth approached a local conch diver cleaning his catch near the marina.
Marshall said, " I've been doing this for 60 years, Mam. If you want any conch or conch shells you can have them for 2 to 3 dollars apiece. I sell the meat to the local restaurants so it would be more if you want the whole conch."

                                                                             

                                                       Marshall's Conch Cleaning Station
                                                                                      

                                           Huen and Linda looking over Marshall's Conch

                                                                                    

                                                                  Beth and Marshall

     Beth immediately noted how much more intense the conch colors were compared to Florida conch shells and purchased several of them to give out as souvenirs to friends back home. She also asked him to make one into a shell that she could blow. Later she found a conch seller downtown who made one she could blow and inscribed it for her with "Betsy 2018 Bahamas" which she says will stay on the boat as long as we are owners. Maybe before we get back she will actually be able to get a sound out of it! Its hilarious to watch her practice.


                                                                                       

     An exploration of the local zoo left us somewhat disappointed to see the animals, such as the ring tailed lemur not in the best of health, but thrilled with the parrot feeding and flamingo show. They are doing the best they can but need more financial help.  We did our part to support them.
                                                                                 

                                                                                    

        

                                                                                  
                                                                                     

                                                       
                                                                                   

                                                                                     

                                                                                           

                                                                       Being Silly!


      With the cruise liners arriving 3 to 4 per day the tourist industry is booming for Nassau downtown jewellery stores, bistros and restaurants but seems expensive such that the locals would rather spend their money on more affordable fare.  Bahamian food is healthy fresh fish  and conch salad with local spices which Beth and Linda raved about. Huen got a local preparation and will no doubt prepare it just as well.  I will stick to the fresh Mahi.
     Our final dining experience was at Lucianno's (from Chicago). A 5 star rated Italian restaurant that was within walking distance of the Marina. A bottle of Sicialian red enhanced the catch of the day which was fresh grouper for Beth and was emboldened my choice of true Italian lasagna.   Waiters with black shirts, bow ties and long white aprons with white towels draped over their arm emphasized that this was dining at its finest. Both of us commented that this really was the best meal of our whole trip.
     At the marina not only do we pay slip fees, electric fees  water usage fees but a 7% value added tax is tacked on to the total and American money is at par with Bahamian money so that often you get Bahamian currency for change.... On top of that you get an additional 5% service charge on Mastercard or Visa and 7% on American Express. I can tell you Bahamian money is not accepted at par back in the U.S.A
     We are waiting a 3 day weather window to return directly from Nassau to Bimini in one day and Bimini to Fort Lauderdale the next.   So far it looks like we may be able to leave this Thursday and be in the US on Friday.....we will see!