Is it possible to fall in love with a town? I think not. But if one could, St. Augustine might be the one, especially if you like being around the water, boats, European ambiance mixed with southern hospitality, and the friendliest people we have encountered on the trip (on par with the folks in Lake Arthur, LA we wrote about earlier in our blog).
Our cruise over was pleasant with a warm 10 knot breeze, temp in the high 70's and just a light chop on the water. There were a few areas of shoaling which we slowed down and easily navigated but even these had their own strange attraction because of the change in colour from dark to light blue surrounded by white sand. The admiral decided that because of reports of strong current at the municipal marina we would go up the San Sebastian River to Rivers Edge Marina which had good reviews on Active Captain.
Wonderful people! As we rounded the final turn before the marina we saw a man standing on our designated dock. A very polite Paul greeted us, tied the lines to secure the boat, hooked up our 50 amp power cord and seemed surprised at the $10 tip. Maybe they don't get that many motor yachts was my first thought and given the number of sailboats in the marina and being a little out of the way, it was probably true. If so that may explain his surprise.
Some refer to sail boats as rag baggers, or whistle pissers. Rag baggers, I understand. But whistle pissers had to be explained to me: they pull into a marina ask the price of fuel, whistle in disbelief at the price, ask to use the lavatory and leave! They are known to be frugal which isn't a bad thing in this day of high fuel prices but I believe that someone in the service industry who actually gives polite, thoughtful, useful service should be rewarded, after all they are struggling just like the rest of us!
Paul took us up to the office to register and meet Don, one of the owner's of the marina. Don greeted us warmly and explained the cheap fuel price $3.83/gal compared to everyone else in the area at $4.05/gal and some at $4.23/gal. (turned out that's why the Admiral really chose this place!) The city owned municipal marina had recently installed 200 moorings around their marina which is directly on the ICW with the argument that they wanted to clean up the harbour of all the sailboats anchored for free in the area. At $20/ night for a mooring vs. $2.25/ ft/ night for a slip, it is cheaper for a travelling boater, but too expensive for the permanent freeloaders and the city would get some revenue from those who would just anchor. Problem is the city marina is funded by tax money and not even making a profit! The cheap moorings have taken most of the business away from the private marinas like Rivers Edge so they are fighting to get their business back. They make no money from the fuel, letting the fuel truck deal directly with the boater even though Rivers Edge arranges the fuel up. They are super accommodating. When I mentioned we were only going to be here a few days and I had bent props they quickly called around and within 2 hours a diver had the props off the boat and we delivered the props to St. Augustine Marine center where the props were repaired THE NEXT DAY! and the diver had them back on the boat the following day! All done within the reasonable prices quoted to me.
On top of that everything a cruiser would want is within walking distance. Wynn-Dixie grocery store. West Marine, Sailors supply discount house, Tammy's comfort food, downtown old St. Augustine, and "Hurricane Patty's" restaurant and bar.
"Hurricane Patty's!" is just far enough away that we couldn't hear the music but within staggering distance of the boat. This is the most fun we have had since leaving Texas. It was Karaoke night so we went in thinking it might be fun to listen to local yokels screwing up the music for a while. Surprise! Surprise! Surprise! Some of these locals could be professional singers! Yes, there were a couple of performers with too much alcohol and too little voice but the majority of them were very good and the crowd was hilarious, friendly, laughing, dancing, singing and of all ages. We laughed till the tears ran down our faces when an elderly gentleman (around 80 years) stood up and took hold of the rope that was hung from the rafter beside him and started to do the dirty boogie pole dance! (apparently they use a rope instead of a pole because they can move it ...and someone fell off the pole in the past) When he slapped his gyrating ass, elderly and younger women would deliver a hug and kiss along with a dollar bill to his shirt pocket and the crowd would cheer!....who said the elderly have lost it! Nanny (my Mother) who was in her 80's used to say, "When you got it! You got it!" and these folks at Hurricane Patty's got it!
Next day we walked to old St. Augustine. The architecture was unique. Well manicured lawns, beautiful shrubs and blooming pink and white Azaleas along with vines climbing the sides of the brick buildings adorned not only Flagler College but most of the other old Spanish styled buildings, including the Cathedral Basilica.
Cathedral Basilica
Henry Flagler a co-founder of Standard Oil Co was impressed with the charm of the area and built the Hotel Ponce de Leon, which later became Flagler College The Admiral went wild with the camera enticed by the beauty of the Bridge of Lions, the pirate galleon, and the tri masted tall ship viewable in the harbour. As we sauntered through the narrow brick alley's shaded by tall oak trees dripping with Spanish moss it seemed that we were transported to a simpler world and time.
ThinkI can ding the prop on this:?
Tomorrow we will take the tour trolley in the morning and start preparing the boat for the next leg of the adventure to see the wild horses at Cumberland Island. "Wait! Wait! Wait!, says the Admiral. "We are not leaving here until we find the Fountain of Youth!"
So with tickets for the trolley in hand we took the tour and wound up seeing: the Pirates Museum with real gold and silver booty in a pirates chest, discovered by an adventurer; put in jail for 30 minutes to get a taste of how terrible conditions were for prisoners in Florida in the era of chain gangs and bull whips; toured the HMS Bounty, a tri masted tall ship made for the movie "Mutiny on the Bounty" and believe it or not Maritimers...made in Lunenberg, Nova Scotia; and last but not least visited what the Spanish Conquistador, Ponce de Leon was searching for...The Fountain of Youth. As governor of Puerto Rico he had heard rumours of people who lived into their 80's (a rarity for Europeans at the time) and sailed to what is now known as St. Augustine and discovered the Toumatua Indians....tall (over 6 ft) and physically fit into their 80's. Believing it to be something in the water it has now become a mecca for those wanting a drink from the Fountain of Youth...not believing it, but not wanting to tempt fate...we drank! (Later washed it down with a Martini and Yuengling beer to get rid of the sulphur taste!....but I feel younger already! Interestingly, this Indian tribe practiced genetics. They bred their biggest males with the biggest females to make big warriors....sorry Ponce!
Finally we get to resupply for the next leg of the trip. A walk with back pack and carry-all to the nearby Wynn-Dixie grocery store. Since we needed water, I got to carry a 24 of water in the back pack over a mile back to the boat....Admiral said, "No taxi. We need the exercise!" So there I am fancy assed owner of fancy assed motor yacht bent forward laden with a $10 case of water labouring to get to the boat and mumbling to myself, "I can think of a lot more fun way to use up the calories! Trouble is I'll be too damned tired to corner the admiral if I do make it home! ugh! Maybe she's smarter than I thought!" This is cruising?
