Cumberland Island to St. Augustine, Florida

     Once again we would have to time our arrival allowing at least 2 hours of incoming tide so that we could pass the multiple shallow areas in the ICW, particularly around Fernandina Beach. One reviewer reported trying to pass at low tide and getting stuck in the middle between two markers! We changed our departure time to 8:30 knowing that would put our arrival later in the afternoon and thus increase our risk of having to endure the afternoon thunderstorms.
                                                                             

                                           Leaving Cumberland Island and the Wild Horses
                                                    

                                                                                 

Three Coast Guard Cutters waiting at the Mouth of Fernandina Inlet to escort Navy Submarine into Kings Bay Naval Station

     Our cruise was highlighted by some very playful Dolphins. It seems that the Florida Dolphins are just more playful than their northern cousins.  This time an entire pod of, as near as I could count 8, not only rushed to play in the bow wave but also in the side waves.  We kept hearing this slapping sound out the side doors of the boat.  Sure enough, the Dolphins were jumping out of the side waves onto their sides making a loud slapping noise. Three of them seemed to be making a contest of who could jump the farthest and make the most noise!
                                                                           

                                                                               

                                                                                 

     As we waited for the Bridge of Lions in St. Augustine to open we had time to view the fort and the mooring field. It seems that boaters are just not moving at the present time. The mooring field was only partially filled and the downtown marina appeared almost empty.  It started to rain and we heard the first rumblings of thunder.
                                                                                   

                                                 " Pirate Ship" passing by

                                                                                  

                                                           Castillo de San Marcos
                                                                                

     Turning up the San Sebastian river, the rain and thunder increased with flashes of  cloud to ground lightning several miles behind us. Beth got drenched just putting out the bumpers and by the time we got settled in  at Rivers Edge Marina with the electric hookup, all of us (the dock master Paul included!) looked like drowned rats! Once again the severe lightning circled around us.  I'm beginning to believe that Beth's suggestion of seeing the double rainbow has indicated we will have a good trip. My Brother-in-law, Danny Kennedy told me that when we were trying to leave Eastport, Maine but couldn't because of the fog, he had a drink to the "Rum Gods" and the next day we were able to leave! (I'm not superstitious but any boater will take all the luck they can get!)
     It must be fate. When we stopped here in 2012 (see St. Augustine blog), I wrote about the fun time we had going to karaoke night at the on site restaurant,  Hurricane Patties.  Paul smiled and informed me it was karaoke night tonight and gave me a card for a 15% discount. We enjoyed a couple of cocktails prior to going, had a great meal, and enjoyed the entertainment. The stripper rope didn't appear this time, but the singers ranged from the acoustically caustic to some who could be professionals. Fun was had by all.
     Up early I started at first daylight to wash the boat. The beginnings of "the ICW smile" had started to appear again on the bow of the boat.  For those of you who do not know what this is, I will explain. There is a lot of tannin in the water in the ICW and with constant running the bow wave continuously pushes this tannin onto the front of the boat. After a while an ugly yellow stain appears giving the bow  a "moustache" which is difficult to remove not only because it stains, but it is a difficult  area to reach because of the angle of the bow to the rest of the boat. Repositioning Doc's Holiday so that the stern was out and the bow in close to the dock, I began to scrub. By 8:00 am I was drenched in sweat. By 10 am I had the port side and the aft of the boat done and I was exhausted.
     A trip to the grocery store, West Marine and Auto Zone about a half a mile away got us stocked up with the essentials ie: half n half coffee creamer, a new boat hook, diesel klean additive for the fuel and fuses for the dingy bilge pump.
     It just happened that a diver was about to clean the bottom of a trawler directly across the dock from us, so for a mere $30.00 tip he checked out my props and stabilizers and reassured me that other then the props being somewhat polished on the tips from going through sand they were not bent and shouldn't be a problem.
     The salon aft air conditioner gave up the ghost. This one Danny Kennedy and I worked on in Eastport, noticed some burned wire connectors, replaced them and it has worked fine until today. Because of the oppressive heat and humidity all of the air conditioners have been getting a work out once we are stopped.  There is absolutely no way one could sleep inside the boat without air. A fan just won't cut it for us Canadians.  When southerners remark that they just can't stand the cold, I remind them that I can always put on more clothes to keep warm but I can only take off so many clothes to try and keep cool.
     The marina quickly arranged to have the air conditioning people check it out. The problem ---age! The coils had exceptionally high resistance which apparently causes the amperage to increase and can result in some wiring connections getting burned. The unit would have to be replaced for an approximate estimate of $3,000.00.  Worse though was that they wouldn't be able to get one from the distributor until next week. The decision was easy after talking to my buddy in Port St. Joe. When I asked Huin if there was anyone in Port St. Joe who could replace an air conditioner his reply was direct, as usual. "I just replaced two in my boat.  Just get the boat home and don't worry about it .  We can handle it!"  On top of that tropical storm Danny just became a category 1 hurricane  and although quite far away (in the windward islands), was headed this way. I would prefer to be in Port St. Joe where I can look after the boat and not on the east coast of Florida where these storms often travel. 
     A fuel truck arrived around noon, so we moved the boat to the fuel dock and took on 240 gallons of diesel, spilling only a few drops. At $2.35/gal this might be the cheapest fuel we would see for a while.
     Returning to our slip, Beth and I discussed our options. We would keep moving tomorrow, but tonight we would enjoy St. Augustine. Beth called a taxi to take us downtown to the French Bistro  we had visited in 2012 and declared it to have the "best french onion soup" we had ever tasted. It was no longer in existence, replaced by a crass place called "Omnivores"
     Disappointed, we strolled the brick and cobblestone streets of old St. Augustine admiring the Spanish and British architecture of the old homes, some turned into beautiful Bed and Breakfast retreats, others turned into fine dining restaurants.
                                                                           

                                                                               

  

      I glanced at the sky and remarked to Beth, "Something wicked this way comes!"  Menacing black clouds rolled toward us and we began to hear more frequent and louder thunder.

                                                                           

     We quickly entered a dining lounge and got seated as the intermittent rain drops increased and turned into a deluge. Cloud to cloud and cloud to ground lightning became almost incessant as the streets outside began to flood and the thunder rolled. Safely ensconced in a booth inside this concrete and stone building we worried about Spencer and Sophie being scared in the boat.  Resolving that at the present there wasn't much we could do about it, we enjoyed a delicious meal and shared the best Key Lime Pie we have ever tasted. Maybe this place would remain and become our "go to place" when we visit in the future.
     Returning to the boat we found the dogs were fine, but very happy to see us.  Sophie went with Beth to bed while Spencer remained within inches of me while I plotted tomorrow's course.
     

Cumberland Island Day 2

     Sitting on the front deck, I was slow to take in my surroundings. At 4:30 in the morning all is quiet. A soft breeze wafted over me, keeping me cool as I slowly sipped and enjoyed the aroma of a cup of coffee. The stars overhead appeared closer. The milky way appeared as a long stroke of a lighter shade of pale. Channel markers twinkled their red and green colors off in the distance, lighting the way for those cruisers who unadvisedly or unavoidably traveled at night. The only distraction was the distant lights of the navy port. Nothing appeared to be moving. I sat quietly on this moonless night watching the serene reflection of the stars wiggling in the water around the boat.
     As the morning sun began to lighten the eastward sky, I looked forward to what the day would bring. Once Beth gets up and has a coffee we would start the generator back up to launch the dingy for our trip to shore. The plan would be for us to have a picnic on the beach and let the dogs run and play in the water.  I can hardly wait to see Sophie's and Spencer's reaction when they see the horses.
                                                                                 

                                                                 Breakfast

     First Sophie, then Spencer  appeared on the front deck beside me. I knew Beth was out of bed and I found her already in the lazy boy chair enjoying her first sip of coffee.  We discussed our plans for the day and got ready to take the dogs to the island. As I launched the dingy, Beth prepared the backpack with beach blankets, water, camera, dogs leash and harness. It took both of us to get Sophie into her life jacket. (What gives that dog so much energy?)  Spencer on the other hand stood absolutely still and lifted each paw to fit into his life jacket.  He was ready to get in the dingy.
      We quickly landed the dingy at the visitor's dock and followed the dogs up to the island.
"Remarkable! Serene! Awe-inspiring!" I thought. I simply can't think of enough adjectives to describe this island that produced the same feelings in Beth and me had the day we first landed here in 2012.  We let the dogs run ahead and enjoy the freedom.
                                                                                   

                       
                                                       

Starting down the path to the beach we walked slowly through 100 plus year old trees bent and gnarled, with Spanish moss dripping from their limbs.  Slowly a surreal feeling evolved, like maybe we were in a mystical "Harry Potter" movie.  We rounded a bend just as a fawn walked out into the path. She spotted the dogs and stepped slowly onto an alternate path but did not go into the woods. She waited, curious to see little Sophie. She just stood there and stared at the tiny puppy. Beth called to her but her focus was on Sophie.  Sophie, on the other hand just sat and stared back. Neither dog barked. They all just sat staring quizzically at each other.
After about 5 to 10 minutes we turned to slowly walk toward the beach, looked back and the little fawn was following us down the path. When Beth squatted to offer some grapes, the fawn paused then meandered off into the dense bushes.

                                                                                  

                                                                               

     The dogs ran across the bridge over the sand dunes towards the seashore. We stopped to take pictures of the local flora, always keeping the dogs in sight. Cool air was drifting in off of the Atlantic so the dogs were cool enough to run and chase each other and made a game of who could get to Beth or me first, when we called them.  Returning back over the same bridge a large deer appeared beside the bridge blissfully eating leaves and shrubbery. It gave us a casual look when we stopped to take pictures then we meandered off to sit in the shade provided by the thick canopy of this aged woods. Peaceful, relaxing and a rejuvenating walk in the woods always seems to sooth the anxiety of the soul. It certainly did this time.
                                                                                   

                                                                                  

                                                                                   

                 
                                                                                       

                                                                                     

                                                                                 

                                                           Look what I found!


                                                                                  

     Returning to the boat, all of us were tired. Exhausted puppies curled up at our feet as we had the ultimate of pleasures....time for an afternoon nap!

                                                                               

                                            Doc's Holiday anchored at Cumberland Island

    
     We planned on returning to the island so the dogs could see the horses but a late afternoon thunderstorm with lots of lightning threatened than passed west of us, so we lifted the dingy on board and and cancelled the jaunt back to Cumberland isle.

 Tomorrow we would resume our relentless march south.

Cumberland Island

     As we were preparing Doc's Holiday for getting away from the dock at Morning Star the captain of the boat next to us came out to help. Ray and his wife Susan Cope haven't been to their home in Panama City, Florida more than 1 month in the last 3 years. They have spent their time cruising their motor yacht in the Bahamas in the winter and in the Chesapeake in the summer. Not only did Ray live just 30 minutes drive from us in Port St. Joe but he was a member of Bay Point Yacht Club, the sister club to our Port St. Joe Yacht Club. Small World!
                                                                            

                               Lots of Range Markers marking shallows and channels.

                                                                                 

                       St. Andrews Sound overlooking Atlantic after storm blew through.

     The cruise to Cumberland Island was peaceful except for the threatening thunderstorms that are predicted to persist for the next several days. As we approached St. Andrews Sound we could see heavy rain out over the sound. Beth confirmed this on the internet radar so we simply dropped and set the anchor to wait for the storm to pass.  I didn't want to attempt this sound in inclement weather. To get through this sound you have to go several miles out into the Atlantic to round a shallows area and their is a caution that this area has "Dangerous Wave Potential" and several reviews that emphatically state "Do not attempt this in N E winds greater than 20 knots!  One sail boater tried and found himself rolling 30 degrees side to side.  We waited.  Once the storm had dissipated we headed out into the mild ocean swells, rounded the marker and proceeded up the inside of Cumberland Island. Needless to say I bumped up the speed to keep the time we were in the swells to a minimum and experienced no sea-sickness.

                                                                                 

                                                     Five Dolphins in our wake

                                                                               

                                                          Cumberland Island

                                                                                

                     Missing Green Channel marker washed ashore Cumberland Island

     The cruise was peaceful with soothing sunshine, intermittently cloudy and occasionally thunder clouds which all seemed to go around us. Beautiful anchorages with a few boats passed by and we passed some interesting sites, such as the huge electrical grid used to de-magnetize the submarines that came into the naval port.

                                                                       

                                                         Kings Bay Submarine Base
                                                                               

         
                                                                                   

     We slowly glided up to the protected anchorage beside the south tip of Cumberland Island and carefully set the hook such that the boat held solid when I left both motors in reverse.  I then let out 100 feet of chain in this 10 foot depth.  There would be no question of the anchor dragging if we did get hit with a thunderstorm.  The storms and lightning at first headed directly for us, turned at the last minute and went around us.  Spencer was doing his vibrating thing because we could hear the thunder and we could see ground to cloud and cloud to cloud lightning. It circled around us.  All we got was a few spits of rain.
                                                                           

                Can you believe it....we are the little blue dot and we only got a sprinkle!

     Beth and I headed for the upper deck and barbecued some hamburgers to eat with the potato salad she prepared on our cruise over. Cracking open a couple of frosties, we relaxed and took in our surroundings. This beautifully aged wooded island  has been left as nature intended, thick trees interspersed with lush green fields.. The hum of civilization does not penetrate here.
      "What would make this perfect is to see the wild horses." Beth commented in a subdued voice.
Voila! Within minutes a mare and her new born appeared serenely grazing along the river bank. Later the "Daddy" appeared. This truly is a magical place, or Beth has a mystical connection! Since it was threatening rain and was late, we decided to wait until the morning to launch the dingy and take the dogs to shore. 
                                                                         

                                                                               

     The dogs immediately recognized this anchorage as being special.  In unison they lifted their heads up and started sniffing the air, then spotted the wild horses. Spencer gave out a low pitched deep growl as Sophie bounced from the floor to the seat in excitement. Sorry kids, you will have to wait until tomorrow to get closer.
                                                                                   

                                         Evening stroll on the beach at low tide!

     After a few more frosties....note to self...  Beth really should stick to the light beer!...we made a couple of telephone calls and reluctantly started up the generator to cool things off so we could sleep.
    
    

Beaufort to Isle of Hope, South of Savannah, to St. Simons Island

      Ladies Island Marina in Beaufort, SC is one of those places that people arrive unknowingly, are heartfully welcomed, fall in love with the place....and stay.  A very pleasant Doc Master named T.J. helped us get into the dock and took the time to explain that this friendly community had everything from a Piggly Wiggly grocery store, hardware store, restaurants and even a barber shop all within 2 blocks and a very friendly boating community. This all proved to be true but we were intent on getting to Isle of Hope because we knew from our stop there in 2012 that  this same kind of community existed there.
     We had help pushing off the dock by the sail boater tied up directly in front of us.  He joked about it being insurance for not getting his boat damaged but I expect he saw my rather ominous landing the day before. Nevertheless, he was helpful and with a cheerful smile and wave he wished us a safe journey and we easily motored into the channel, turned and got several waves from people we had met on the dock.
     It was a long but uneventful cruise all the way to Isle of Hope where we were met by 2 strapping young dock hands and the dock master.  Hmm!....do these marinas call ahead?  No, they greeted everyone that way because there is a swift current and there was 20 knot winds blowing the boats into the dock.  This time we got close to the dock and even though the wind was strong we gently bumped up against the fenders that Beth had skillfully placed.  Topping up the front tanks with fuel the dock master wanted us to just pull ahead to stay on this face dock overnight. We gently bumped the motors forward as all 3 hands pushed to keep Doc's Holiday from rubbing all the way down the dock. They knew what they were doing but it took an extraordinary amount of strength to push the boat into the wind.  No scrapes...Whew!! I thanked them a gave them a generous tip.
                                                                                 

                                 Cruising past Hilton Head Marina on the ICW

                                                                                

                                                  Hilton Head homes on the ICW

                                                                                  

                                                                Summer Fun!

     On registering, we found out that the peeps that were here when we came up in 2012 were no longer around. The live aboards mostly worked during the day and the night time pot lucks just didn't happen anymore.  They just didn't have the same get togethers that they used to have. The community here had changed! The same friendly owners and staff were here. The old oak trees draped in spanish moss still adorned the quaint streets.  The buildings and docks lining the waterway were the same, but things had changed.
     My family had moved a lot when I was a child. Just as I would get to know other kids and develop friendships, we would move.  This return to Isle of Hope reminded me of something my Mother told me once, "You can never go back. Things just aren't the same. After a time, not only will things look smaller than you remember, but the people will have changed. Enjoy what you have now because the only certainty is that things will change."  She was right. If you ever returned to a place where you once lived, I bet things appeared closer and smaller than you remember and no doubt  things were different.
                                                                                   

                              One thing that has not changed......."Sunrises at Isle of Hope"
                                                                                 

     During our trip down we were passed by a PDQ catamaran named "Miss My Money" and were tied up at the same marinas on two occasions. This time they were docked right in front of us. We immediately struck up a conversation and found David and Barbara Doyle to be friendly helpful boaters with a wealth of information about cruising in general and in particular,  cruising the Atlantic ICW.  They have been doing this since 2006 and  had the experience of do's and dont's and watch out for this shallow area and did we know about the free dock near Jacksonville etc.   This was great information and much appreciated, but our main concern was the next challenge ... getting through "Hell's Gate" between Little Don Island and Racoon Island. This is the second Hell Gate of our trip and where during our 2012 trip north to Maine, I freaked out because I thought I saw a hand come out of the water! (see 2012 blog)
                                                                                

                                       A just missed storm before heading into Hell's Gate
                                                                                 

      There are 72 reviews on Active Captain about this area. Many had grounded out at low tide. One reviewer had only 22 inches and sat there until the tide came in to lift him off. On top of that there is a "wicked bad current" when the tide is falling.  We confirmed our predictions with "Miss My Money" and followed them as they left the dock even though we observed threatening thunder clouds forming to our south west, the same direction we would be heading.
     The catamaran travels at almost double our speed so we quickly lost sight of them and concentrated on the thunder storms that threatened us during most of the trip and our  passing through Hell's Gate.
      "Piece of cake! I exclaimed to Beth as we went through this difficult passage with just a little cut back in speed. We had timed it perfectly at slack tide. Now all we had to do was keep away from the thunderstorms. It rained intermittently and we did see a double rainbow, but the trip was otherwise uneventful.  Surprisingly we arrived at Morning Star marina on St. Simons Island only an hour behind "Miss My Money".  Apparently they had to anchor before entering Sapelo Sound because not only was there a torrential downpour obstructing their vision but they had severe lightning.  All we got was the double rainbow that Beth said was an omen for a safe trip.
                                                                         

                                                         " Miss My Money"

     One has to be impressed with the professionalism of the dock masters we have encountered on our trip but the dock master at Morningstar tops our list. He is an experienced boater and coached us into the dock, tying our aft spring line first than telling Beth which line he wanted next.....the smoothest docking we have ever had and the only time I didn't have to personally readjust all the lines. This marina is a little expensive but is worth it just because of the dock master.
     Spencer and Sophie get so excited when we dock because they know once we are all hooked up they get to go explore the area......and PooP! Once again Spencer couldn't wait for the grass and "pooped in the wrong place!"....on the dock!.....this  mortifies Beth, which cracks me up.  I just pick it up with a baggy.  Yes, they have puppy pads they could use but they just prefer to go outside.