Saturday, June 23, 2012

Delaware Bay-A near death experience!

     We started early, lifting the anchor and moving by 6:30 am. The national weather service was predicting another idyllic cruising day. There was a "weak front" supposed to pass through during the afternoon with a possibility (50%) of an afternoon thunder shower.  No big deal. we have had a few thundershowers before and there is a 50% chance that we won't even have rain. We had been cautioned by another captain that the Delaware can"get a little snotty" when the tide goes against the wind, but all were in the same direction today and there basically was not going to be any wind.
     Another lake like cruise, with smooth as glass water and the tide going in our direction for a change.  We easily ran 10 knots up the Chesapeake, through the C and D Canal and we would be catching the outgoing tide down Delaware Bay to Cape May. For once, things were all going our way.



Beautiful homes along the Chesapeake
                                                                                                                                                                        
                                                                                 
                            Commercial traffic taking advantage of the calm Chesapeake Bay

                                                                                
                                                                                  
     As we got near Chesapeake City a beautiful 60 foot Jefferson Motor Yacht  approached from behind. Tom and Pam on "Pampered" were heading in the same direction and we decided to"Buddy Boat" down the bay. This usually just means someone to talk to on the VHF radio, occasionally warning of any debris in the water or pointing out interesting sights.  It was to mean a lot more for all of us before we got to Cape May!

                                                            
                                      "Pampered" heading under the Chesapeake City Bridge.          

     We joked along, Beth taking pictures of a nuclear power plant and me making jokes about workers glowing in the dark because of the radiation. What was to happen next was no joke. In fact it was terrifying! It was the closest we have come to losing the boat and quite frankly our lives!

                                                                                
                                                   New Jersey nuclear power plant

   Beth remarked, "Did you see where there is some rain showers down near Cape May?"

 "Ya, doesn't look like much and we are two thirds down the bay. The only anchorage we have picked out in case of inclement weather was behind us and we only have a couple of hours to go." I replied.

     It started with just a few rain drops on the windshield, but we both became alarmed when we looked at the weather system on the internet.  Storms were brewing up all along the coast. We spoke with Pampered and they were continuing on, replying that it was a little rough but manageable and they were just 10 to 15 miles out. 
     Then the VHF cracked to life with a coast guard warning of severe thunderstorm, "All boats should seek safe harbour immediately!" Great, but the nearest safe harbour was where we were headed....along with 3 storm cells...2 passing in front of us and 1 coming down the bay behind us!  The wind picked up.  The last wind speed I saw before the anemometer quit working was 60 m.p.h.!  We could see thick cloud to ground (water) lightning bolts that were so loud the boat vibrated.
      The VHF cracked to life. It was Pampered. "Are you guys OK. We are in big waves with heavy lightning all around us. It's just ahead of you!" Pam blurted as we watched 3 thick lightning bolts snap to the water near them.
      It was raining so hard I couldn't see past the bow of the boat, and as I fought to keep the boat on course the rain became mixed with hail the size of small marbles that bounced off the windshield. Suddenly, the boat bounced and turned completely around as I struggled to just keep the nose into the wind. We heard the Bimini pop and tear.  By this time Beth got the life jackets and put one on me, as I was struggling with the ships wheel, one for Spencer and one for herself. The boat rocked side ways not quite putting the port rail in the water. I tried to reassure Beth that the boat wouldn't roll over, but it was sure tipped until I got the nose into the wind..the problem was the wind was turning us in a circle!....??? a tornado??  waterspout??? Who knows but it was ROUGH! actually TERRIFYING!
     The worst part is that we were coming down a ship channel with large container size ships travelling in the channel, and I couldn't even see these monsters on my radar! Fortunately, we had the foresight to travel outside the channel markers because suddenly out of the abyss appeared a ship coming up the channel and within 30 minutes, as I was looking out the side door for a channel marker to confirm my position, a huge ship was passing me going in our same direction down the channel!

" Where the hell did that come from? Why didn't I see that on the radar?" I exclaimed loudly. These ships in perfect weather throw off  as much as a 12 foot wake! You can imagine what it was like with 6 foot waves on top of this!  The damned captain of the ship didn't even answer my call on the VHF...I just wanted to know if anymore ships were near by, because we had to cross the ship channel to get to port.
     It was comforting to hear from Pampered that they made it to port, but unnerving to think that we still might have worse weather ahead.. We checked and rechecked the weather system.  If we slowed down to let the electrical storm pass in front of us, would the storm coming down the river catch us?
We had no choice.  I couldn't speed up because of the big waves now rolling in from the ocean, but at least the wind was decreasing, and the rain was easing such that I could see at least a mile ahead . The radar was now able to pick up the channel markers and other ships.
      We crawled forward with Beth sitting on the floor holding a terrified trembling Spencer.
 "If I can just get by this light house marking the shoals, we can turn in and the ride should get a little easier," I told Beth.
     She looked up at me with that, I'll believe it when I see it look in her eyes.  When I thought there were less steep waves I increased the speed to help get us around the shoals...this caused us to bury the nose of the boat in a large wave that came too quickly for me to cut back throttle.  Crash! things were falling and smashing all around in the boat.(we thought we had everything secured!) We inched around the shoals and as we turned in toward the channel, the ride did get a little easier.  The automatic pilot wasn't quick enough, so I manually kept the boat on track and managed to increase the speed.

 "Just 18 minutes and we will be in the jetties," I told Beth as the boat took another roll to the side.  "Just 15 minutes," I informed her again.

 "That was a hell of a long 3 minutes!" she groaned as the boat repeatedly rolled to the other side.

 "Whew, we made it. " I exclaimed as we entered the protection of the jetties leading to the protection of the ICW.

 Finally, Beth stood up with poor little Spencer in her arms and simply said, "That sucked!"

 We finally inched our way in to a very tight, Utsch marina.  As we cracked open a coldy we looked around the boat. "It looks like a small bomb went off in here." quipped Beth.

 I sighed and took a long pull on the frosty bottle of Coors beer,  "Ya.  That sucked! Do you think we can sell the boat here?" I pleaded.
     We checked with Tom and Pam, and over dinner we commiserated about the rough trip.  Tom handled the weather differently.  He increased his speed to 18 knots raising the nose of the boat and putting his automatic pilot on quick response. ("You can do that! Man I have got to read the manual! I thought silently.
     They were planning on leaving the next morning at 7 to make the outside trip to Atlantic City since the front had already blown through and it was giving good weather tomorrow.  Beth and I just looked at each other and smiled. I knew what she was thinking. Is there a boat dealer here?

                                                                              
                                   A snap shot of the "front" we went through yesterday!!!!

     Once again, a lesson learned.  What would I do differently next time?  Just what the coast guard warning suggests...seek safe harbour.  In this case it might have been wiser to immediately pull into shallower water and set the anchor with as much chain out as possible.  At least we would have been far out of the ship channel.  Of course, even better would be to get to a protected anchorage, but waiting out the storm would have been safer. Also we found out that a lot of the boaters try to get to their next destination before the winds come up in the afternoon.  One sail boater we talked to said,"Oh yes. We try to be in a marina or anchored by 2 in the afternoon at this time of year here, because of the afternoon thunderstorms!"  Great! Why don't they put that one in the guide books!

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Norfolk, Va to to Dobbins Island, MD

     We opted to leave early to try and get a long run  at Chesapeake Bay, notorious for being very rough.  The National Weather Service predicted 0 to 1 foot waves and we wanted to make the most of this good weather . Other boaters we have met ran into numerous storms and took several days to cover the 200 miles up to the Chesapeake-Delaware Canal, and we were hopeful that we could do this without the inclement weather we have experienced to date.
     Up at 4:30 untie lines and power cord.  Walk and pee Spencer.  Jump on board. Turn the key. Push the start button.....and......nothing!  What! Try again....Nothing!!!!....! #$%...wtf!!  Adjust the transmission lever....Nothing...Try the port motor....Start!   OK. Down into the engine room.  There is a switch on the transmission cable that disengages the starter for the motor, if the transmission is in gear. It's corroded and the terminals are loose...so....What would you do?  Hold the button on the switch in while someone tries to start the engine?  Didn't work. Tighten up the loose connection? Didn't work. Look at the other engine to see if anything is different?  It looked different.  To make a long story shorter here is what I did.  I jumped the terminals with a jumper wire....and ...it starts. Turns out this switch probably never worked  because the cam from the cable never engaged the push button on the switch...easy fix...connected the wires together and eliminated the switch...but ...must be real careful the transmissions are not engaged when the motor starts ....or voom voom, the boat is in gear and immediately moving.
     We tank up with the cheapest diesel fuel so far (at Tidewater Marina)  $3.18/gal.   As we wind our way out past Hamden Roads ( home of the naval ships)  we are cautioned by the coast guard that an aircraft carrier( #69) is leaving port.  We can proceed, but stay outside the red cans marking the channel.  No problem, 50 feet of water out there!  Helicopters,  F16 fighter jets and the coast guard patrol boats flanked the aircraft carrier and kept us proud curious onlookers, at a respectable distance.
    

                                                   Norfolk Naval Base....very hazy day!

                                                                                                         
                                                  Aircraft Carrier "69" leaving base.
                                                                
                                                      
                                                            "Stay Away"!!!!
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              

     Impressive! Damned Impressive!  Not just the immense size of the aircraft carrier. As the ship pulled out we could see that the entire circumference of the bridge was lined by smartly dressed sailors in their whites.  They stood at attention for about an hour and a half as they exited the port of Norfolk, passing us, still at attention, about 10 miles out!  Impressive! Damned impressive!
     I don't know where they are headed, but I wish them all, a safe journey.

                                                                           
                                                                                     

                                                                               
                                                                                
                                             
                                                                                
                                                                                 
                                Coast Guard Escort as Air Craft Carrier very quickly slips by.



                                       This boater got a little too close for Naval discomfort.
                                                                                    

     Now , for the Chesapeake. Like a lake! The most serene comfortable cruising we have experienced so far.  A high pressure settled over the area and we cruised at a comfortable 8 to 9 knots north, covering about 66 miles and anchoring in an idyllic bay, to enjoy sun downers and burgers on the barbecue.  The perfect cruising day that this trip was supposed to be.

                                 
                                       Sunset at our anchorage on Great Wicomico River                                       

                                                                                                                

                                         Crab Fisherman on Great Wicomico River, VA
                                                                                 
                                                                       


Birds hitching a ride on a barge going down the Chesapeake
                                                                         
     Next morning we left the anchorage by 7:20 with the idea that we would cover as much water as possible while the weather was good.  We did.  88 miles before we anchored for more sun downers and shish- ka- bobs on the grill. We anchored at Dobbins Island, on the Magothy River in Maryland, which is  little above Annapolis and slightly south of Baltimore.
      A high pressure had settled in, and with the humidity, created a heat index of 110 and a haze that hung sullenly over the water.  The haze, known as an avection fog, limits visibility to about one and one half miles. Leisurely cruising  over the very slight swells in the flat water, I noticed a blip on the radar screen..There was something about 2 miles off our port bow.  I strained with my eyes, than the binoculars, until finally an apparition appeared....the faint outline of a large war ship...a ghostly appearance.  I called for Beth to take a look...and there it was....A GHOSTLY APPEARANCE OF A WAR SHIP!  We tried to get pics..(Beth will post.)..and as we were taking the last pic,  two F16 Jet fighters swooped in, circled around the boat and headed directly for the apparition.   They circled and passed again!  Then an armed forces helicopter flew over Doc's Holiday...It was clear...we were in a prohibited zone!..and we quickly exited.  It turns out this wasn't an apparition.  This was a war ship that the navy used for target practice....Thank heavens ...not live! ...while we were present! but there are reports from smaller boats that have entered into the area, of being able to see through this ship where shells have pierced the hull.  There are also reports on active captain that this ship is not lighted at night and other vessels have run into it and been sunk!

                                                                                                                                         
                                                                 Ghost Ship

                                              
                                                  US Navy Helicopter Surveilling us!  
                            
                                                                              
Charts say this is an obstruction but  2 F16 jets were flying over this "obstruction" Could not get a picture of the F16 jets because by the time we heard them they were gone. They did this at least 4 times.




       As we travelled north past the Potomac River, we floated by several military/naval bases...all heavily covered by security boats, helicopters and jets!  This nation is very well protected...and they practice...all the time!

                                                                                   
Baltimore Light House.....100 years old. Guided North bound vessels to the Port of Baltimore and Southbound to the Atlantic

                                                                                   
                                               Sailboats rafted at Dobbins Island, MD

                                                                                       
                                                  Sunset at Dobbins Island, MD

     There is so much history and so much to see on this bay that it would provide endless days of exploration to really get the flavour of this part of the country.  Unfortunately, not this trip.  We are focused on getting the boat to Maine for the summer.

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Albemare Sound to Norfolk, Va

     A quick check of the national weather service prediction for Albemare sound indicated....time to go!....seas less than 1 foot....winds 5 knots....yahoo!! Finally a break....so we started as soon as we could see the crab pots.  Easing our way out into the ICW, we turned towards the sound still expecting to see waves.   Glass, smooth as glass! It was time to get the boat up on plane and clean out the pipes.  Away we went across the most formidable sound since the Mississippi
.

                                Sunrise behind Durants Island...dolphins fishing for breakfast.
                                                                              
 
                                        
                   Yumm...brownies and coffee for breakfast!  To early for Spencer!!

                                                                                 

             Better now...Dad gave me the crumbs...hope Mom doesn't find out!                     
                                                                                                              

     We didn't think we would make it all the way to Norfolk because of the timing of the bridges. Some opened on the hour, some on the half hour, and some didn't open between 3:30 and 6:00 and were at the end (I should say the beginning) of the ICW.  Fortunately we were able to hook up with a professional captain of the yacht "Lady Kath"  He suggested I fall in behind him. If we didn't hit any major slow downs at the bridges and if I could keep up between the first two bridges, we should be able to make the last opening before they close the last bridge down between 3:30 and 5:00.  Thank you Lady Kath. The Captain had the bridges timed perfectly and we arrived in Norfolk (80 miles) by 4:30,  at the Waterside Marina. We docked directly in front of a "Hooters!" 

                                                                                 
                                   "Lady Kath". Very Large Motor Yacht with 5-6 crew.


                                          Berthed in Front of Hooters for 2 days.
                                                                                                                                                                    

     What a great spot.  Thank you Doug Shulman!  Doug is a member of the Hatteras owners forum and we have reviewed his blog many times in planning our trip.  He stayed here and he was right.  A great spot because you step out your door and are at some major attractions. We even checked out the place where he got fudge...sorry Doug...they appear to be closing down, but Hooters, Joe's Crab Shack and Outback are right here.

                                                                  
                                                     Next to us....one pier over.        

                                                                                

     We toured the National Maritime Museum and got some great shots of the Battleship Wisconsin.  They also included entry to the Bill Hoover Boat Collection.  I will let the pictures do the talking..these  runabouts were beautifully restored.

                                                                                  
                                                            Battleship Wisconsin

                                                                                    


                                                                                  
                                                                                  
                                                                                
                                                                           

                                                                                 
                                                                                  

                                                                               
                                    Maritime Museum Park... 5 minute walk from our boat.

      While we were cleaning the salt off the boat,  an impressive 160 foot yacht arrived from the Cayman Islands, "Sun Chaser".  I spoke with one of the 7 crew who told me they had a rough crossing until they got close to Norfolk this morning.  I guess it doesn't matter what size boat you have, you still need to pick the weather windows.

                                                             "Sun Chaser"  

                      

                              Sun setting on the bows of "Spirit of Norfolk" and "Sun Chaser"
                                                                                

                                                                               

Sunday, June 17, 2012

Oriental to Albemarle Sound (Durant Island Anchorage)

     Given the very rough trip we had across the Neuse River we decided to get moving early before the wind came up, pushing the water into those steep waves we experienced crossing to Oriental yesterday.  We were lifting anchor and moving as soon as there was enough light to see the crab pots.


                                                         Sunrise on the Neuse River
                                                                                                                                             
                                                                               
     We glided smoothly out past the sleepy little trawlers and sailboats that sought refuge from the waves.  As we exited into the river we could see there were no white caps because there was no wind.
It seemed to be working......until......about an hour out....the wind came up and so did the waves...not quite as bad as the day before....see the linked video.  Water over the windshield...up and down...bang...bang....bang.   What the hell....the wind wasn't supposed to come up until 9:30 or 10:00 NOT at 06:30.   The boat was handling it well, but Beth got that worried pale look on her face.
 "I can take this as long as the boat doesn't start rolling side to side", she said.
I couldn't allay her fears much when I had to admit that we would turn side to the waves for a short period as we turned up into Pamlico Sound.  Doc's Holiday rolled a bit but the ride was much smoother and the boat settled down to a gently rocking motion.....Whew!  Once again Doc's Holiday took care of us.


                                                                                

     In the tight channels the waves and wind were not an issue.  It was another relaxing ride and the wind died.  We were able to get Doc's Holiday up on plane crossing over Pamlico Sound. Although, we are not used to going that fast the mechanics have been cautioning me to get the motors up to temperature, which might stop them from weeping oil.
      As we were running at our usual hull speed the radio cracked to life.  "Doc's Holiday. This is the motor yacht the Black Knight requesting to pass on your port side."  I slowed up and pulled over to the starboard side.

                                                                               

      What a beautiful boat!  It is a 1968 Eldridge built by two brothers in Boothbay Maine.  It was the flagship for the New York City Yacht Club, now owned by "The Black Knight", I guess....who is he?  Someone suggested a golfer.  At any rate he had just gotten married and was taking the boat north to get the varnishing touched up. 
     We covered 100 statute miles and were able to pick our way in through many crab pots to solidly anchor in 6 feet of water off of Durant Island, entering  Abelmarle Sound.  A few cocktails and I got to work tightening up the packing glands as they were just dripping too much.  Tomorrow could be harrowing since Abelmarle sound is reported to be worse than the Neuse River.


                                       Sunset at our anchorage behind Durant Island