Transiting the Locks

     Cruising towards New Orleans we turned up the Barataria Waterway.  Beautiful expansive estate homes along the shore were interspersed with dilapidated shacks.  All had boats of one sort or another tied up to their docks or shore front.  I guess it doesn't matter what your earning power,  many people love being by the water.  Of course we slowed our speed so as not to wake the boats as we passed, even though this slowed our progress to New Orleans.  As we approached New Orleans the Barataria waterway split to form the Algiers and Harvey Canal.  We decided to take the Harvey Canal to transit the Harvey Locks into the Mississippi, so that we would be travelling south on the Mississippi instead of fighting the current flowing from the north to get into the Industrial Lock.
     The Harvey canal was ten barges and boats deep on each side with crew boats, casino boats, paddle boats, and ship repair yards.  Fortunately,  we came through on a Sunday so no one was working and the traffic was non existent.
     As well, we were the only boat in the Harvey Lock (by the way, this is mile marker 0 for boats headed west). Beth got what she has been trying to prepare for...."locking through".   The lock master directed us to hold on the south bank until a barge exited, than with a blast from the whistle we followed directions to enter and tie up to the starboard side.  All hands on deck; were ordered back in (by the lock master) to put on life jackets, then back out by me, to handle the bumpers and place one line around a round pipe in a pigeon hole on the side of the lock.  I was told to leave the boat out of gear but the wind was twisting the boat and I didn't want my beautifully re- varnished wooden hand rails to hit the lock wall, sooo..I used the motors to keep the boat off the wall.....sooo... the lock master abruptly informed...guess who?  Beth,  to tell the captain that the pressure from the props could force the doors closed and we might be in there a long time.  With her angelic smile and soft voice she informed him that this was our first time in a lock. He gruffed back, "Yes, I could tell!"
                                                                     
                                      .
     The locks opened and with a blast from the horn, we were spit out into the mighty Mississippi, (I love typing that word!) and mighty it is! We were surprised at the width and the speed (our normal 9 knots increased to 12.5, but what was really impressive was the speed which the large container ships and tankers were coming up the river!  We barely had time to cross over to the east side to get to the entrance to the Industrial Canal because of a rapidly approaching tanker.  We made it but then nose dived into his wake six foot wake...Woo-Hoo!

                                                                            
                                                                 Mississippi River.

     Turning into the Industrial Canal locks, we were told to hold up at a floating dock off to the south side, so we knew it would be a while.  Forty-five minutes later,  "old pros!" entered and took two lines from the dock hand.  This time we dropped 6 feet without incident.

                       Tied up waiting for passage through the Industrial Canal Lock.
                                                                             

     We were in a hurry to get landed before a reported front with wind gusts of up to 50 m.p.h. was to reach us, so I didn't get a close look at all the scenery but what I did take in was markedly less than spectacular. In fact, I can only describe it as an industrial waste land...scrap yards, industrial repair yards and grain elevators. Not a blade of grass to be seen.  However,the good part was no waves or wakes because there was minimal boat traffic.
     Just as we found our docking space, the wind increased. It was quickly getting dark and the dock was not straight since there was a 3 to 4 foot offset where one floating dock was attached to a narrower dock. At first it seemed it would be easy to get landed.  Both Mildred and I felt the wind would push us right onto the dock.....NOT!  I guess it was the way the marina buildings were positioned or maybe the wind changed, but from being initially pushed towards the dock and just as Tom and Beth were about to throw a line around a cleat,  we were pushed off the dock.  When we finally did get a mid cleat spring line to stay it was difficult to back down because of the offset dock......to make a long story short, one and a half hours later we were tied snugly to the dock just in time to be buffeted by the increased winds from the passing cold front.
   Exhausted, we barbecured some steaks, tossed some salad and mashed up the potatoes to help us swallow several cocktails. I say barbecured, because Tom likes his steaks so rare I think they are just cured rather than cooked!  Me, I like them burnt.  My Mother, affectionately called "Nanny" was a poor cook and burnt everything.  Dad use to say she could burn water!  Consequently I grew up to love burnt food.
     Today, we need to clean up the boat, arrange transportation to get Beth to the airport, and us back to Beaumont.  It will be 3 weeks before we can return to get the props changed out and continue our saga.  Thank heaven.  I need to return to work to get a rest.!
    

Houma to New Orleans

     Houma was immediately recognized as being affluent with expansive estates on the north bank when we entered.  A narrow waterway through Houma necessitated us in pulling as close to the bank as we dare go to allow a double wide barge to pass.
       A very amiable dock master, Ray,  met us at the town wharf to show us the way in, tie us up, and hook us up to power. $25.00/night. This dock is a well landscaped park with very friendly people.  Nearby are two gas stations with convenience stores and a Subway restaurant.
        It turns out that Houma is very affluent according to Ray. The economy which was once based on shrimping and crawfish farming has expanded and now is mainly based on the oil industry; and is booming.  Ray says they currently have only 5% unemployment (vs 10% in the rest of the country).  "The only ones here not working are the ones that don't want to work", says Ray.
      He was born here and lives just 2 streets away from the dock, and claims the area is well patroled by police because of the hospital just across the road.
     We washed the salt off the boat, tanked up the water and settled in for left overs from the Regatta restaurant in Lake Arthur. They were even better tasting than when we got them! Thanks again Gregg for the corn grits, oysters, pork roast and the prime rib.  Mildred actually had an oyster sandwich for lunch and the prime rib supplied us with tender sandwiches for lunch.
     No fuel available in Houma but if our calculations are right we should have enough to make it to New Orleans (I just hope we don't run out in the Mississippi!)  It would be nice to keep the boat light for the haul out to have our props redone at our marina in New Orleans.
    
  

Avary Island to Houma

     Beth has been somewhat understandably anxious about anchoring out, and has been particularly apprehensive about transiting the locks.  I noticed as we were approaching the Calcacieus locks, she busied herself with getting lines out, placing bumpers in strategic positions and dressing for being on deck, with shoes, sunglasses and hat.  In fact, she has done this for each lock we have approached, no doubt desirous of getting experience while we have old pros on board... (that would be Tom and Mildred--not me!..I refuse to be called OLD!!!) Alas, she has been thwarted. All three locks, Calcasieu, Leland-Bowman and the Bayou Beouf locks have all been open and we have throttled through each one with no difficulty.

                                                        
                                                 Bayou Beouf Locks

                                                                               
     Now, you know something must have happened today, or I wouldn't be writing. 
     We were relieved when the thick fog  lifted by the time we started out. The problem was, it didn't last long. A few miles down the ICW we ran into a fog bank that lasted for 20 miles.  Thankfully we had Radar and every eye watching to pick up the numerous barges in time to get out of their way.   Particularly difficult was crossing the open bays with the wind pushing us and the barges all over.  I did not want to power up because we now had a vibration from the previous days attempt at anchoring but we were able to get over and out of the way in time mainly because of the Radar!

                                                                            
                                 Barge going into the 2 hour fog bank we just came from.

     We decided to push on and try and make Houma 89 miles away so we would be in striking distance of New Orleans on Sunday.
      Wild life seen;  Mildred spotted the first Bald Eagle she has ever seen and a few miles later 5 more; Tom spotted a bobcat; Beth spotted a Heron having a bad hair day;.me....just a post cubra libra face in the mirror.
     Something never seen before----A billboard on the intra-coastal waterway---can you guess for what??........A lawyer!  Is there anyplace on this big blue ball we call planet earth that this species doesn't exist!

                                
                                                                                

Avary Island

     Having had a quiet restful night at the wharf in Lake Arthur (Windows open, cool breeze, temp. 70 deg.) we headed out at the crack of dawn to a grey sullen day.  Since we had left an electronic trail in our map plotter on the way in, we could confidently cruise at 1200rpm making 9 knots without undue concern for obstructions on the way down the Mermenteau River.  Winds ranged from 10 to 15 knots but as expected increased to 20 to 25 knots by the time we were to anchor in Petite Anse, just off Avary Island.  We had plans to dingy up to the only Tabasco Sauce maker in the country and tour the plant but we had some degree of difficulty anchoring in the suggested Active captain spot near the ICW.  Deciding to go further inland to get away from the wind, we wound up at the mouth of the Cargill Salt mine.....many attempts,  many fouled anchors and 3 hours later we returned to the original anchorage as the winds had settled to 15 knots. The problem was a clay bottom.  Every time we tried a set we would break free and the tip of the anchor would be fouled with thick hard clay. We would have to spend 15 minutes to clean it before we could try another set.  Two hours later we returned to our original anchorage where we remained secure for the rest of the night.Nevertheless, we remained secure all night near the ICW .
    Of course going to bed without repairing something would be out of the question, so Tom and I repaired the sensor for the forward port fuel tank.  We knew we were full of fuel but the guage constantly read empty.  it was jJust a poor ground on the sensor, but we had to drill out a broken screw and replace it to fix the thing properly.
      By the time we got it fixed the girls had spaghetti with meat sauce and garlic bread ready.  A few cubra libras later ...good night.

                                            Anchor finally set as the sun set over the marsh.

Delightful and Distasteful

       
         For those of you who have wondered why I persist at the trevails of boating, because it's a challenge to get through a trip and handle the inherent (sometimes distasteful trials of boating).  Last night was truly distastefu,l but before I get into that, let me tell you about the best part of the trip up the Mermenteau River to Lake Arthur.
      We called ahead to the recently opened restaurant, The Regatta.  This place was suggested to me by Dustin one of mynurse anesthetists. The restaurant knew we were coming because we phoned ahead to make sure there was a place we could dock, but we certainly didn't expect the reception we got!  We were met by the mayor of Lake Arthur, Robbie Bertrand and the owner of the Regatta, Greg Trahan.  They helped us get tied up to the long Park Wharf, and get hooked up to power. (price for docking up and power $10.00 for the night!)  After welcoming us, the mayor said " The grocery store is out of town and we have no taxis but if you need any supplies just go over to the police station. Tell them who you are and they will take you there and back"  He wasn't joking!
     This little town of 2900 people is Lousiana's best kept secret.   They are working hard to bring back their economy and were recently voted by Bloomberg magazine as the #1 safest small town in Lousiana to bring up children.
      A major factor in this reviva from the economic downturn is Greg Trahan.  A former engineer who developed a major consulting firm employing over 700 people is from Lake Arthur.  He sold out to a fortune 500 company years ago and decided to give back to his community by helping to develop the waterfront via the restaurant.  He has done a spectacular job.  This is without a doubt the best dining experience we have had in the south.  
      The Regatta has a floating dock for smaller boats and reportedly already averages 2 to 3 seaplanes per week.  The staff is managed by Craig, who warmly greeted and seated us and if the waitress Bobbie Joe is any indication of the quality, attention, and humour of the rest of the staff, he has done an excellent job of recruiting and training the 60 employees.  We were told the cook, who regrettably we didn't get to meet was only 21 years old, but the food reflected someone of skill, imagination and attention to detail of a much more experienced chef.
     Talk about friendly people and southern hospitality! Another customer and her friend asked the staff who we were. We obviously stood out as boaters and confirming that we were from out of town, sent over dessert!  On personally thanking them we found out,  Kate and Katie were from nearby Lake Charles, who on first discovering the Regatta, experienced someone welcoming them as new visitors to the restaurant with dessert, and they wanted to reciprocate knowing we were visitors.  On top of that, Greg sent us home with complimentary corn grits that were as tasty as he claimed.  Thank -you Greg.
    For all you cruisers, you will be missing out on one of the best little destination points off the ICW if you don't take the 15 mile detour to visit Lake Arthur.

                                  DocsHoliday tied up at the Lake Arthur City Park Wharf.
                         
                                  Regatta Restaurant in background with green roof.

                                                            
     Now, for another trevail of boating.  For me it started when I looked up and saw Mildred with her hand wafting fresh air in front of her distorted face.  With a cough she sputtered, " Can you get the wash down hose for Tom!" "What happened that you need a hose? I responded.  "Tom has been working on the toilet in our cabin and well...he has a mess."   "What kind of mess," I laughed.   "He has shit all over the place!" she gasped.  Trying to suppress my hysterical laughter I went forward and got the hose through the front hatch to an eagerly waiting Tom.  He had decided to replace the vac-flush pump with a newly configured one...(newly configured backwards! )...and pumped the holding tank back into the boat!  My laughter quickly subsided when I had to put my head into the bilge to help him get the hoses back  on!!!..  It is working great, now and I can safely say we are all breathing a little easier.

                                                     Tom and Mildred....enough said!!
              

                               Next stop, anchoring out near Morgan City............maybe!

    
     
     

Galveston to Orange, Texas

                                      Sunrise on Galveston Bay.....makes it all worth while!!!
                                                                               
     Expecting Galveston Bay to be rough we left early (6:30 am) before the predicted wind increase and still had 3 to 4 foot waves with the occasional salt water spray over the bow and front windows.  A short 40 minutes later we eased into the intracoastal entrance at Bolivar Peninsula and our rocky-rolly ride completely smoothed out.  Finally, it seemed that our excursion was going to take a turn for the better and our boat problems were behind us......NOT!  The first indication that the future had more difficulties in store for us became evident when we noticed that our speed at 1200 rpm had slowed from 9.1 knots to 7.3.  Oh, we are against the tide and wind, that explains it....MAYBE!  We motored on.   Smooth sailing across to the Neches River, I decided to "blow out the pipes and warm up the motors as suggested by Mark, the mechanic at Pier 77.(so maybe I can blame it on him?)... No, we didn't ground out! What I noticed was that despite the engines going to 2300rpm the speed came up to only 14 knots. Hmm,  wind on our nose, tide against us?....MAYBE! 
     We slowed down on our approach to Adams bayou and gingerly travelled up as far as the Sabine yacht club basin.(For the most part it was destroyed by hurricane Ike, even though there are several house boats and sailboats still docked there...free!)  I decided to not enter,  instead preferring to anchor in the middle of the bayou.  Finally, peace; a cocktail of rum and coke with lime ,quiet, solitude, nature, ducks flying by overhead, creatures making noises in the nearby marshes, a lonely water moccasin swimming by...yuck (and it excited Beth!)  Lets check the generator room before we have dinner.  Oh, where is this water coming from? Why isn't the bilge pump keeping things dry? Lets check the other bilge pumps..Where is all this water coming from?  Damn, we are taking on water as fast as the bilge pumps can pump it out! 
     No we weren't sinking, but at the very least it might explain why we couldn't get the boat up to speed or up on plane....we had at least 100 gallons of water in the bilge!   Did we have a hole in the boat? Were the shafts pulled loose  because of the grounding?  Why are we just noticing this now??
     Can you guess what the answer might be?
      Well here is what we figured out.  First of all, the boat is heavily loaded, almost Beverly Hillbilly Style, especially after taking on another 184 gallons of fuel in Galveston.  As well, the boat  has a slight list to the port side, where the bilges pump out.  The bilge pump did not have a check valve to prevent water from coming back into the boat, so with the outlet under water, when the pump stopped pumping, water siphoned back into the boat!  Think this is unlikely?   Well we confirmed it by using Beth!
      Once we saw that water was coming back out of the pump, we got Beth,along with Mildred and me (Tom doesn't weigh enough to make any difference and we needed him to watch the pump) to stand and lean out over the starboard side of the boat.   This allowed air to enter the bilge pump hose and break the suction and siphoning.  It worked!  The pump is off until we can install a check valve in the outflow line and re balance the boat. The other pumps will take care of the bilge water.
     Somewhat surprisingly, the rest of the night was peaceful.  We all slept well--mental exhaustion might have something to do with it  (along with a few more cocktails!)-and we had perfectly still water. Tomorrow, on to Louisiana and the Mermenteau River.

Back to Pier 77

     Sitting forlornly hard aground off the channel, we watched as the barges and occasional pleasure boat glided easily by.  The occupants straining their necks to see the yacht stuck in the mud.  Rick Ryan appeared in a boat to aid us and after assessing the situation indicated the best course would be to wait for high tide and try to get off, rather than take a chance on doing damage to the boat by trying to tow it backwards.  We cooled our ambitions and waited. Even though it was only about an 8 inch tide we were able to power off and return to Pier 77 on our own.  Rick and helpers were waiting to help us get tied up.  Next morning Docs Holiday was lifted. I fully expected to see major damage to hull, shaft, struts, and props....Thank you  Chris Craft...They built one hell of a stout boat..only some paint off the keel and minor damage to props. Struts rudders and stabilizers...no problem.  The props were sent back to the prop shop and while we waited for their repair the boys got busy waxing and compounding the minor scratches out of the the hull. Back in the water Jan. 17,  I paid the bill and thankfully noted --no charge from Pier 77 for coming out to assist us or for touching up the bottom job.  Rick and Robbie were both there to help us launch and with a friendly hand shake we said we would test the boat for vibration ...if none...we would keep on going.  Ugh, we should have stayed.

                                         
                                                 Going back into the water.....round 2!!
                                                                             
      Oh, the boat ran fine, up to 17 knots, no vibration, and handling well.  No the problem was not the boat.  No, how should I say this?  The problem was ..ahem... a slight miss-calculation in anchoring. Even though Beth said, "I don't like that spot--active captain ( the web site we use to determine not only if there are any obstructions to passage, but the quality of marinas, repair yards and yes...anchor sites) says its rocky/rolly and the holding isn't all that good."  I decided it would be OK for the night if we anchored and checked our holding when the wind change occurred in the evening.( It was giving a front moving in with 15 to 25 knot winds which would clear out this thick fog that was now settling in...gulp!) Maybe I was a little bit nervous about crossing the gulf with night approaching almost as fast as the fog was, but damned if I was going back to Pier 77 and embarrass myself again.

                        Only good thing about this anchorage was the dolphins in our bow wake.

     Well the fog surrounded us and the wind picked up and I realized we were in trouble when Docs Holiday slid from about 100 yards to 20 yards from the sail boat that was anchored behind us.  The anchor alarm didn't sound.  It was only because of our alertness ( due to the feeling of impending doom when we couldn't see the huge tankers rocking our boat in the fog!!!) that we averted a disaster, lifted our anchor, (along with half of the mud from the bottom of Galveston bay) and pulled into the Galveston yacht club fuel dock and tied up safely for the night. Aw, come on...nobody could have this much trouble in the first week of what was to be a journey lasting at least 6 months...or could they? What's next??  When I asked Tom, "When are we going to start having fun?"  He looked at me and smiled, "I'm already having fun!"